A Grecian Summer

Despite being one of the largest regions of Greece, the Peloponnese is still very much under the radar when considering a holiday to the country. Perhaps because a Greek holiday conjures up visions of idyllic islands and whitewashed beaches, whereas the mainland is often dominated by Athens.

However, the Greek mainland is having a moment, as people begin looking away from the over-touristic areas and are craving something new, different, and completely authentic. This is where the Peloponnese region comes into focus; and it's where we spent our family holiday in Greece this year.

The region is the hand-shaped peninsula at the southernmost region of the mainland; it's a huge area to explore, and includes historic sites such as Sparta and the birthplace of the Olympics - the mountainous landscape means travel times are extended so we focussed on exploring the 'finger' of land where we were staying: between Kalamata (where the tiny airport is located), Koroni, and Pylos - and we still didn't see everything this area has to offer!

So lets dive in to everything we discovered...

Uncovering Ancient Messene

The Archaeological Site of Ancient Messene is a vast site in the central region of Messinia, full of incredibly preserved areas that you can walk through, climb, and explore, as you immerse yourself in imagining life in the past. It was such an incredible experience and we'd have loved to have spent more time here, walking through the ancient city.

There's very little shade, and no facilities (though the nearby town has a couple of little cafes and a small museum) so wear hats, sunscreen, and take plenty of water. It's also an active excavation site, so has very rough ground with lots of scrambling over rocks and climbing up ancient steps, so decent shoes are a must.

Entry was €15 for adults and children are free to enter.

Polylimnio Waterfalls

Greece isn't just beaches and ancient history - the mainland is packed with hidden green gems like the Polylimnio Waterfalls in Messinia: a chain of turquoise pools and cascading falls that feel like stepping into a tropical world.

The trail we took was steep, rocky, and dusty, so decent shoes are essential and little legs may need a helping hand. We didn't climb up to the higher parts of the falls as the track became very tricky past this lower point. However the trek is more than worth it: safe spots for paddling, deeper pools for swimming and jumping into, and plenty of space to splash, play, and cool off together.

Take towels, swimwear, and snacks with you as there are no facilities at the falls. There are options for tours and guided hikes through the area but we just went off on our own time. Parking is free and close to the start of the trails, but the ground is rough and uneven. We left our car in the main lot by the café and walked the short distance to the start of the trail. Don't take low-slung or big vehicles down this far, though, as we had a bit of a nightmare trying to get the car out of the loose shale on the steep path, even in our little, nippy hire car!

The Olive Routes

In the Peloponnese, olive trees aren't just part of the landscape - they're part of the story, of the history, and of the heritage. This tour was an incredible experience that was definitely one of the highlights of our holiday.

At The Olive Routes there are several experience options to choose from - naturally we chose the Family Olive Tour. Under the expert eye of our guide, Calliope, we enjoyed a treasure hunt through the sacred groves of a 13th Century castle to uncover 'liquid gold', learned how olive oil is made at the factory, how to taste olive oil (like a wine tasting but for olive oil!) and pair it with different food, and toured a lush private farm before finishing with a literal farm-to-table picnic in the shade of the trees, which was a true taste of Messinian hospitality and one of the best meals we ate.

This tour starts from €45 for adults and €25 for children, and lasted for around 4-5 hours. It's our top recommendation for an experience to add to your Greek family holiday.

Palace of Nestor

Once thought to be a myth from the tales of Homer, the Mycenean Palace of Nestor was uncovered near Pylos in the early 20th Century, and is a perfect stop for a flying visit (almost literally as the walkways are suspended over the archaeological site and we were told we must keep a hold of our daughter's hand the whole way round!)

We were able to step inside one of the beehive-shaped tombs, walk above the ruins, and see a reconstruction of the famous Linear B Tablets, which were discovered at this site and are some of the earliest examples of written Greek. We marvelled at the throne rooms, counted preserved pots in the storerooms behind the state rooms, and even spotted a bath! Olivia thoroughly enjoyed creating stories about the people who lived and worked in this space as we walked above the ruins.

The palace site is well preserved and under a protective roof. It costs around €6 for adults to enter, and children go free. We were given a small guidebook and also had access the the little museum on site. Parking was free, right next to the entrance off the main road, so it's a perfect spot to stretch your legs for an hour or so.

Peripetia Horses

This was an experience for our daughter, and it was definitely her favourite day! High in the hills above Methoni, Peripetia Horses offer something truly unforgettable; a holistic chance to connect with beautiful horses, learn their rhythms, and ride among the olive groves. For an hour, Oli was guided by Iris - whose passion for horses and care for her young guests was palpable. This is a completely child-focussed experience, and is calm, immersive, and tailored to the individual child.

Oli had the opportunity to meet and groom a beautiful pony before being taken to the paddock for a ride. She had barely even met a horse prior to this, yet within the hour she was trotting and even performing tricks on horseback!

Sessions start from €35 for a child and one accompanying adult with different options available depending on experience and preference. You can email or call Iris through her website as this experience must be booked in advance.

Pylos Castle

Pylos (also known as Navarino) is a pretty harbour town on the western shore of the Messinian 'finger' of the Peloponnese. We spent a morning wandering through the main square, shopping for souvenirs at the unique shops, and enjoying brunch at the harbourfront where we could soak up the vibes and the breeze. Then we headed up the hill to Pylos Castle.

This imposing fortress is also called Niokastro, which translates as New Castle, though it has guarded the Bay of Navarino since the 16th Century; built by the Ottomans and held by Venetians, French, and Greek forces throughout its history. We were amazed at how complete it is, and how much of it can be explored freely - though there are very few safety features, even on the battlements so keep an eye on inquisitive kids!

We climbed bastions, Oli defended the castle from pirates through the battlements, explored courtyards and walkways, cooled off in the shaded church, and soaked up the stunning views across the mountains and seas. There's also a small museum inside with finds from the area's long history and the sunken cities of the Peloponnese.

Tickets were €6 for adults and children are free to enter - as with so many amazing sites in the region. Parking for the town was by the harbour, and cost about €2 for the morning. We walked up to the castle but if you want to avoid the climb you can park for free by the entrance along the road up from town.

Towns and Beaches

Koroni

On the southern tip of this finger of the Peloponnese is Koroni - a colourful harbour town known for its castle, churches, and a layered history of Venetian and French influence.

Kalamata

A vibrant city on the edge of the Messinian Bay, which is packed with history, flavour, and atmosphere. Head in on Saturday morning to experience the immense farmer's market (I've never seen so many fruit and veg stalls in one place before and they were all huge!).

Voidokilia Beach

One of the most recognisable beaches in the Peloponnese, if not all of Greece, and every bit as stunning as it looks in photos - the curved bay of shallow turquoise waters surrounded by towering cliffs could be in Thailand, and we loved splashing through the warm waves and playing on the soft sand.

Bookmark this for when you're planning your family holiday to the Peloponnese, and check out our family socials for more pics!